Weed Control and Grub Worms In the Lawn - SubmitYourArticle.com

You'll soon learn that ANY weed can be taken care of if YOU take care when selecting your products. In this section, I'll discuss the main types of herbicides you'll need, tips on how to select them, and proper methods of application. The basic four types.

Broadleaf - selective liquid herbicide

When properly selected, covers ALL types of annual broadleaf weeds. Does not include broadleaf perrenials such as wild violet, creeping charlie, and wild strawberry.

Grassy weed - selective liquid herbicide.

A pre-emergent should be applied when the soil temperature reaches 51 degrees. This is because grassy weed seeds (which there are MILLIONS of in every yard) germinate between 51 and 55 degrees. An effective pre-emegent, when properly timed, will stop about 80 percent of grassy weeds from germinating. Try and find a granular as it will last longer. Post emergent herbicide should be applied promptly do deal with most types of grassy weeds. The only exeptions to the rule are nutsedge, bermuda, and zoysia. Many times repeat applications are necessary. If the lawn is checked weekly, grassy weeds won't be a problem into the summer.

Selective Nutsedge Herbicide.

This one's important. If you have nutsedge, or you've seen it anywhere near your property, you need to have this on hand. Nutsedge is a nasty, quick growing, quick spreading, menace. It grows 5 times faster than turf grass. It spreads quicker when you pull the tops. It goes to seed in four days flat! Apply generously, repeat, repeat.

Round it Up!

If all else fails, round it up! Necessary for wild violets and strawberries, bermuda grass, zoysia grass, and creeping charlie. Destroy a 5 foot perimeter. Wait 6 weeks. Destroy it again if needed.

And that's weed control!

Beetle larvae that are small (1/2-1 inch long) and white are commonly known as "white grubs" The worst pests include the Asiatic, June and Japanese beetles as well as masked chafers. Starting in spring, as newly hatched larvae, they eat the grass roots of the lawn, decreasing the turf's tolerance to minor drought, heat and other stresses. The grubs create wilted and dry patches that can eventually lead to the plants dying off.

As grubs can live as far as 6 inches under the soil, a long acting pesticide is needed. I hate to be repetitive but, slow release granular will do the trick. Apply at the begining of the summer, and check to see if repitition is needed in the early fall.

If you are getting large circular patches of dead grass that pull up like carpet, you've got grubs!

The correct way to check for grubs in your. If you have more than 6 grubs in 1 square foot, your lawn is in serious danger.

Check often as grubs can do hundreds of dollars worth of damage overnight.

Vernon Quarles is the webmaster for Pro Turf Lawn Service. Check out more at Kansas City Lawn Service

Source: http://articles.submityourarticle.com/weed-control-and-grub-worms-in-the-lawn-333513

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